Oh the folly of youth. When I first visited Madeira about 30 years ago, it seemed to be the island of pensioners. Happy to enjoy the winter sun, these elderly visitors seemed reluctant to leave their deckchairs; a G&T was never far away.
It’s a different scene now, as I discover after a glorious few days exploring the mountains and forests of the interior.
For starters, I’m overtaken on all trails by superfit sixties and I’m having trouble keeping up. What is going on?
By the sea: Emma stops in the pretty seaside town of Ponta do Sol (above) and does ‘nothing more trying than taking a few photos’
Wine, coffee and dessert in the capital of Funchal. Here, Emma checks in at the Castanheiro Boutique Hotel
I ask Miguel, the manager of my hotel, Quinta das Vinhas, what has changed over the years. Set in a vineyard, it has been welcoming tourists for decades. “Travelers of all ages come these days,” he says. “Yes, we also appeal to the elderly market, but the over-60s want adventure and activity, not just sitting by a pool sipping Madeira wine.”
So, early the next morning, I find myself joining a jeep tour, departing from the Quinta in the southwest corner, heading north. We start out fairly calmly, racing along roads and tunnels cut into the hillside.
As we cruise the coast, we stop at the pretty seaside town of Ponta do Sol and do nothing more strenuous than snap a few photos. So far, so good.
Upon reaching Seixal Beach, a handful of people undress to wallow in warm, calm volcanic pools. These are encircled by jet-black rock formations that protect them from the seething rage of the surrounding sea.
Then it’s time to head to Laurisilva, the largest berry forest in the world. Our guide, Diogo, propels us at breakneck speed along old, almost vertical village roads.
Stomachs are heaving – this is clearly to prepare us for the off-road experience, driving over rocks and through streams in the laurel forest. Listed by UNESCO as a natural heritage site, with gnarled trees, lichens and mosses, it’s a verdant world in its own right.
Laurisilva, above, is the largest berry forest in the world. Emma writes: “Listed by UNESCO as a natural heritage site, with gnarled trees, lichens and mosses, it’s a verdant world in its own right”
One of Emma’s stays is at Quinta das Vinhas (above)
Looking at the abundant flora, one is reminded that Madeira may be officially Portuguese, but geographically closer to Africa, with a subtropical climate. We are surrounded by everything from giant ferns, banana trees and passion fruit trees to hydrangea bushes and geraniums.
Our return home rewards us with breathtaking views of rugged mountains and vast canyons. We jump out of the Jeep to walk through an extinct volcanic crater before reaching another green oasis.
This is the Enchanted Forest of Fanal, a misty otherworldly place dotted with trees believed to be over 500 years old. The twisting branches of ocotea foetens, also known as stinkwood, conjure up ghostly shapes, even during the day.
Emma hikes to the “awesome” Risco waterfall (above). “The sound of rippling water soothes our spirits,” writes Emma
More mountain adventures await you the next morning, this time on foot. We are all still tired, but hiking in such a lush environment, with warm water dripping from the vegetation, is refreshing.
And it blows the cobwebs away after a night of tasting Madeira wine and the other local favorite, Poncha – a potent blend of rum, honey and orange or lemon juice. We follow the levadas, clever irrigation canals, which criss-cross the north of the island.
They were built centuries ago to carry water from the mountains to the crops of the more arid south, and are still in use today. After some stunning climbs, we reach our goal, the magnificent Risco Waterfall where the stream cascades down a gentle 100m slope. The sound of rippling water soothes our spirits.
Our efforts are rewarded with an afternoon at the spa. We head to the capital, Funchal, and check into the Castanheiro Boutique Hotel. Here, a sauna and massage relax our aching limbs, and we swim in the rooftop pool with views of the city skyline.
The next morning, I stroll along the waterfront, try some dried bananas at the food market, and stop for a coffee on Rua Santa Maria, where the wooden doors are decorated with street art. That evening, we have dinner at Ákua, a seafood-only restaurant. On the menu, tuna tartare, ginger and coriander razor clams and fried cod tacos followed by red snapper.
My passion fruit white chocolate mousse comes with a black olive caramel sauce – a surprisingly delicious combination. As, indeed, was our all-action adventure in the forest.
I leave this wonderful island wishing I had more time because there is so much to do in Madeira. Paddleboarding, surfing, kayaking and canyoning are all waiting for my next visit – I just need my muscles to recover first.
Breathtaking landscapes: one of Emma’s seaside stops is Seixal Beach, pictured above
Emma writes: “I leave this wonderful island wishing I had more time as there is so much to do in Madeira. Pictured above, Ponta do Sol
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