Years ago I made my first trip to Oaxaca, and I still remember the heat of the cobbled roads scorched by the sun; even now I feel the crackle of chapulines in my mouth, driven out by bites, locally made mescal.
I also can’t forget to dive into Criollo, the restaurant of Enrique Olvera (of Pujol fame), chef Luis Arellano and architect Javier Sanchez. The pristine white walls, punctuated with woven chairs and flowing white curtains. The tables, laden with black and fire Oaxacan ceramics which contained intricate moles and brightly colored seafood tostadas. I remember thinking, I would live here if they let me.
Cut to me, back in New York City, learning that there was, in fact, a house at the back of this restaurant. Better still: it was listed on Airbnb, and anyone could book it. So a pandemic later, I did. He did not disappoint.
Criollo House, as the house is called, shares a building with its eponymous restaurant. To get to the house itself, you knock on the door knocker outside Criollo, pass the warm comal where the tortillas are made, shimmy between the tables and turn a corner to find your private oasis.
It has two bedrooms, sleeps up to four people (one bedroom has two twin beds, while the master has a king), and has plenty of living space. At the front of the house, in the garden, there is an outdoor seating area and a long wooden dining table surrounded by cacti and hanging dragon fruit plants. Inside you’ll find a lounge with books and an always-full bottle of bicuixe mezcal, regularly delivered by a local maestro mezcalero known to the team as Señor Ipólito. In the backyard, a small pool inground in concrete, with recliners and a fringed hammock hanging over the shallow end. These spaces flow naturally into each other, and I couldn’t help but envy the indoor-outdoor living I could never have in Brooklyn.
The pictures speak for themselves, but the decor is, quite simply, straight out of a design magazine. The restaurant’s clean lines, natural materials and austere elegance continue here with soft touches – think woven pixtle rugs in the bedroom and bathroom, white waffle towels and a beige palmera hat hanging from a hook.
I imagine most people would want to share the beautiful Casa Criollo with their loved ones, but I went alone after a busy weekend in Mexico City. It was a treat to enjoy the surprising calm of the Airbnb, swinging in the hammock with a fresh mezcal cocktail brought from the restaurant. And the restaurant is, after all, the real reason to stay here.
Not only is Casa Criollo a beautiful rental, but everything served at Criollo is at your fingertips (well, a Whatsapp message). The team can whip up rib eye tacos or memelites (masa cakes topped with beans and cheese) and deliver them to your room. You can even enjoy the Criollo tasting menu at your private table. And best of all, tea or coffee and breakfast – you have your choice of dishes like chilaquiles – are included with your stay. I’ve had many great travel experiences, but having breakfast delivered to my doorstep by a world-class restaurant was a first.
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