Andréa Homoya at Ash & Elm.

Presentation customers with varied flavors of cider in small quantities is only part of the work of Andrea Homoya, co-founder of Ash & Elm. Yet cultivating an adventurous palate is a birthright for this longtime globetrotter.

The daughter of missionary parents, Homoya grew up in Singapore (as well as Tanzania and California) eating Southeast Asian fusion street food. Even when the family returned to the United States, her Southern California mother served “exotic” foods like hummus long before it started to become a trend. “Then we moved to Indiana in the mid-90s,” says Homoya, “and it was depressing to see so many channels. But after returning to Indy from the University of Philadelphia, she and her husband Aaron saw the thrills of a real dining scene.

At that time, Aaron was passionate about home brewing and Homoya urged him to come up with a business plan. On a trip to Ireland, they tasted classic ciders and began to focus more on the fermented fruit drink that was virtually unheard of among them. It all seems like old history for the couple, who are set to move their Washington Street tasting room to more spacious digs in the Assembly building, a few blocks closer to downtown. . “It’s a clean slate,” says Homoya. “Light, bright and industrial. The new location will be more of a departure for Indy’s brewery tasting rooms, which Homoya says can be “aggressively masculine.” It will also allow new chef Tracey Couillard to do monthly brunches with pairings to show how the acidity of cider works with richer dishes, even desserts. More importantly, it will give Homoya a new place to spread his love of good taste.

Terry Kirts joined Indianapolis Monthly as a Contributing Editor in 2007. Lecturer in Creative Writing at IUPUI, Terry has published his poetry and creative non-fiction in journals and anthologies including Gastronomica, Alimentum and Home Again: Essays and Memoirs from Indiana, and he is the author of the 2011 To the Refrigerator Gods collection.