Lord of Jānis Lazdāns Manor / Article

In recent years, perhaps the dominant image of British travelers held by Latvians has been of lager-fueled bachelor parties ogling ladies and peeing on monuments. But in contrast, previous generations of visitors to Albion have brought a touch of class.

These first arrivals left behind them architectural monuments, such as the Anglican Church of Riga, and Jaunmoku Castlemagnificent hunting lodge erected at the beginning of the 20^e-century Riga mayor George Armitstead, the grandson of an English merchant who made his fortune in the Baltic countries.

Padure Manor near Kuldīga, 160 west of the capital, is a lesser-known but equally charming example. Built by a 19^egreat Scottish lord of the century, it is gradually restored by a native of Kurzeme who loves its history and wants to create a place full of joie de vivre.

“I grew up in Valdgale, near Talsi, where there is an impressive windmill inherited from an old seigneurial estate”, explains Jānis Lazdāns. “And I guess it was a childhood dream that I always wanted a mansion.”

Padure was inhabited by former Curonians, then in 1404 the Master of the Livonian Order gave the land to a certain Hermann Grundys. The house acquired its elegant neo-classical form in 1837 after Scottish merchant John Lewis Balfour (a relative of British statesman Arthur Balfour and Treasure Island author Robert Louis Stevenson) acquired from a few bankrupt minor nobles.

When Jānis bought it at auction in 2007 for 300,000 euros, it was in fairly good condition despite having served as a German army hospital during World War II and as an apartment building for workers Soviet collective farms. Under the purchase agreement, a family living in the house was allowed to stay for a few more years, which Jānis says was positive as they helped keep the place tidy.

Jānis is skeptical of some restorations of Latvian mansions, which have produced spotless but drab period pieces, and is pleased with Padure’s current “shabby chic” appearance. Restoration is a gradual process. Funding from the Capital Culture Foundation and individual benefactors has given various parts of the property a new lease of life. A crowdfunding campaign to furnish the garden terrace was launched recently, and Jānis wants to rejuvenate delicate murals hidden under centimeters of wallpaper.

The original stairs, stoves, interior doors and window frames with latches have survived. A pair of built-in wardrobes that defied even the most brazen looters also remain from the old days, as does a buzzer to call for help in the basement servants’ quarters. Some extra furniture was donated by a blue-blooded German friend who downsized his own estate.

A small broken window on the top floor will never be fixed. In 1912, John Balfour’s grandson, Adolf, was murdered on the Ventspils-Kuldīga highway. It is said that his soul wants to enter the house, and every time said window is fixed, a pigeon arrives and knocks him out again.

everyone come

The estate generates revenue by offering accommodation through Airbnb and as a venue for special events and concerts. As soon as Covid restrictions were eased in June, Padure hosted a concert by veteran Latvian rocker Igo Fomins.

“You can’t go wrong planning weddings or funerals for Latvians – where would we be without it?” Janis jokes.

Jānis says business has been great during the pandemic as Baltic tourists are discovering their backyards rather than wandering abroad. However, during the week he works as a property manager in Riga, then takes care of the mansion on the weekends. The company doesn’t yet pay enough to give up his day job (he’s a single father with two children), and a solitary life in the countryside doesn’t suit him.

“One summer, I decided to be here full time,” he recalls. “Spending 14 hours a day waiting for some guest to maybe show up – almost had a nervous breakdown. I need people around me.

So when he is in residence, business and pleasure inevitably intertwine. One Saturday evening in August, Jānis invited a few dozen friends and well-wishers for a garden party. Pancakes were cooked on a country stove, an elderly accordion duo and a talented young saxophonist played tunes, and revelers had a good time without worrying about using the silver cutlery correctly or twisting their little fingers in sipping tea.

The host donned a top hat, but only for fun. This earthly gentleman has his feet on the ground.

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