I traveled all the way from Los Angeles to Bangkok to dine at Na-Oh, a Lockheed L-1011 TriStar airplane that’s been transformed into a fine-dining restaurant with exquisite cuisine and a unique dystopian theme.
Review of Na-Oh Bangkok – L-1011 TriStar Restaurant
First I did my reservation. Then I booked my plane ticket. Yes, this evening was the main purpose of my long trip to Bangkok through Europe, the Middle East and North Asia in the midst of a global pandemic.
I took a taxi from my hotel to Chang Chui, an open-air market on the outskirts of Bangkok that houses a former L-1011 jet plane, HS-AXE, which flew for Delta Air Lines from 1974 to 1999, then flew briefly for Thai Sky Airlines, a former airline charter airline. It is now one of the trendiest restaurants in the Thai capital.
It was this video that first caught my attention and changed me at the restaurant:
From the entrance, I could see the majestic TriStar shining against the night sky in an ever-changing hue of light.
A wooden sign with carved animals and the words Na-Oh Bankgok marked the entrance to the restaurant. I was greeted by name (maybe I was the only foreigner on the reservation list that night?) and directed to an elevator, where the host explained the concept of the restaurant.
Na-Oh is a play on Noah’s Ark and L-1011 is designed as a modern day ark, transporting humans and animals through a dystopian era.
Upon boarding, I was greeted by a pair of polar bears (and another host) and directed to my table. But I couldn’t sit still. What an incredibly ingenious theme and decor. The choice of furniture, artwork and taxidermy is a carefully curated collection and is essential in giving the restaurant its unique character.
At the rear of the aircraft is an elevated area with a single table, ideal for private dining. Look up and you will see that the third engine above the fuselage has been removed and a window has been put in its place.
Down a few steps is a lounge and bar. The lounge has a great cocktail menu, beer and wine and it’s not just a cool restaurant, but a cool bar.
In the center of the restaurant, stairs lead down to a lower deck. Delta used this area as a large kitchen to heat meals (while other L-1011 operators like PSA Airlines used it as a lounge). It now includes velvet sofas and a menagerie of wild animals.
Upstairs, the main dining room features tables arranged along the windows with a taxidermy in between.
At the front of the plane, in the old cockpit, is another special private dining area.
The restaurant was not crowded and I noticed that it attracted well dressed young Thai people…I was probably the oldest in the restaurant. The whole ChangChui market has such a different feel to central Bangkok; a richer and much less touristy atmosphere.
Na-Oh dinner
Oh yes, and the food. I enjoyed a delicious five course dinner.
Dinner was at my pace. I started by ordering a cocktail and slowly sipping it as I walked around the restaurant.
When I had taken enough pictures (and by the way, everyone was taking pictures…it’s that kind of restaurant) I returned to my table and a waiter quickly appeared and asked if I wanted start my dinner.
Dinner began with an amuse-bouche.
This was followed by a refreshing appetizer salad:
Fancy tomato salad with scoop of gazpacho ice cream, sundried tomato chutney, marinated wild tomatoes, tomato okra, smoked cream cheese, dill oil and crispy quinoa.
Next is the duck liver… something I usually hate, but I wanted to eat the whole menu and I have to admit it was still tasty (although my least favorite dish… there is something about liver that always put me off). I would have preferred the grain on top to be left out, but the grilled peach was so delicious.
Pan-fried duck liver with crispy mixed cereals, grilled fresh peach, fishing paper and caramelized peach sauce.
The next class was my favorite; buttered halibut with roasted Brussels sprouts and pickled cucumber.
Seared halibut with lemony caper butter, mashed green peas, grilled Brussels sprouts and cauliflower, marinated cucumber cubes and mashed curry corn powder.
The main course, of which I had the choice between grilled duck, filet mignon or rack of lamb, came next. I ordered lamb, which was cooked medium rare as specified and served with a lovely truffle potato croquette.
Pan-fried rack of lamb with mashed beets with cranberry Madeira sauce, diced marinated beets, roasted baby carrots, truffle potato croquette, caramelized onions and crispy onions.
I concluded the meal with a dessert, a dash of pineapple cream with lemon meringue and other bites.
Spicy salted pineapple ice cream with cinnamon crumble, pineapple granita, lemon and meringue sponge cake, pineapple gel and fruity mousse, coral tuile and butterfly fondant.
Just in the last month since my visit, the menu has changed a bit. Rather than a five or three course option, there is now a first class, business class or economy class option. The first class option consists of seven courses (3200THB), business class five (1800THB) and economy class three (999THB).
I asked for coffee after dinner, but the restaurant does not offer coffee! My bill came to 2,808 baht, or about $83. Look, I know you can dine royally for 83 cents in Thailand, but this was a treat.
During dinner, a musician floated through the restaurant playing the saxophone.
In the middle of dinner, the “storm” began. It is a light and music show intended to convey the 40 days and 40 nights of rain in the biblical story of the flood. Oh Fortune by Carmina Burana is used. The funny thing? Moments before the start of the light show, it started to rain outside.
Indeed, for much of dinner, it rained so hard that the power was cut twice. Although not intentional, it enriched the experience and the flickering candlelight at each table provided enough light to continue my meal.
The food was delicious – I met the assistant chef on the way out (Chef Mo-na Teeratada had the evening free) and had a quick chat about the genius behind this restaurant concept. I am so proud of this expression of entrepreneurship.
Although it is an airplane, the toilets have been removed. However, there are toilets on the ground floor.
Kudos to the excellent restaurant staff: everyone was a pleasure to talk to.
CONCLUSION
I simply loved my dining experience at Na-Oh Bangkok. The food was excellent, but it was so much more than the food – it was the whole dining experience that made this one of the most memorable restaurants I have ever dined in and will bring me back the next time I will come back to Bangkok, I hope not alone next time. This restaurant is made to be enjoyed with friends or lovers.
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