36 Hours in Milan – The New York Times

Fuel up for the day at Cafe Orsonero, a corner cafeteria opened in 2016, which serves velvety cappuccini made with beans from Gardelli, a top Italian roaster. Then proceed to La Vigna di Leonardoa new museum in front of Santa Maria delle Grazie (house of “The Last Supper”) which reveals Leonardo DeVinciinterested in viticulture. Opened in 2015, the museum invites visitors into Casa Atellani, a 15th-century residential palace carefully restored by architect Piero Portaluppi. Audio tours begin in a courtyard with faded 16th-century frescoes and continue through ornate halls into a grassy garden, where Malvasia vines have been replanted on a plot that was once part of Leonardo da Vinci’s own vineyard. a gift from his patron the Duke of Milan in 1498. Admission, €10.

Sunday is market day for vintage and antique hunters, and the best place to unearth treasures is Eastern Market, where hundreds of collectors, designers, artists and artisans regularly meet in a former aircraft factory. Meet sellers devoted to vinyl, video games, vintage clothing, Italian antiques, modern art, and even rare Lego sets. A bar, DJ, and food stalls keep the energy going all afternoon. Dates vary, so check the calendar in advance; excluding weekends, Eastern Market Shopwhich opened its doors in November, offers a sharp selection of market stalls.

Around the corner from the Duomo, Roommate Giulia is an 85-room hotel that opened in 2016 with playful interiors by Spanish architect Patricia Urquiola. The design-conscious property offers a cheerful mix of colors and patterns, from the lobby lined with local artwork to rooms outfitted with furnishings by Cassina (Via Silvio Pellico 4; room-matehotels.com/giulia; doubles from around €250).

Next to the city’s fashion district, the Senate Hotel is an elegant 43-room boutique property that opened in 2015 in a neoclassical palace that was once a private family residence. Architect Alessandro Bianchi designed the chic black-and-white interiors, which feature bespoke furnishings, Carrara marble bathrooms, and gold ginkgo-leaf light fixtures by Milan-based artisan studio Bottega Gadda (Via Senato 22; senatohotelmilano.it; from €221).

The lively Navigli area is a good choice for apartment rentals, which start around $70 on Airbnb. And top marks also go to Ostello-Belloa 50-bed hostel near Cinque Vie with a few private rooms, lots of free food and social activities (Via Medici 4; ostellobello.com; from around €50).

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