It’s not always easy to be festive. The accumulation of Christmas can pass in front of us, between shopping lists and work deadlines. In the UK, we often skip the frivolity of Christmas cheer. But not in Central Europe.
In Austria, Slovakia and Hungary, the spirit of the season is still going strong, thanks in large part to the continued popularity of the Christmas market. Here, the markets are a spectacle. “Vienna has 17,” our guide tells us as we disembark our river cruise and head towards the Austrian capital.
For the next six days, I’ll spend my time cruising along the Danube, stopping at three of Central Europe’s best markets along the way: Budapest, Bratislava and Vienna. On board this five star cruisefollowing the Yuletide Imperial City route from Riveria which runs from December 1 to January 6, the pace of our river journey is slow.
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It’s hard to ignore that, in my mid-twenties, I’m the youngest aboard this Christmas cruise of decades. My traveling companions are disturbed by my presence. “Do you work here?” I was asked at the airport as we were heading to the cruise transfer coach. “Have you ever been on a cruise? was another common line of questioning. Although cruises may be generally considered a pastime for older age groups, their reasonable prices could make them increasingly popular with younger generations.
The price of this all-inclusive cruise is good value, from £949 pp including flights and transfers. That works out to £158 per day. In contrast, the average hotel the price in Vienna is £104. Unlimited drinks packages on board are extra: at the price of £100 per person for the journey. Alcohol on board is not expensive, however. A pint of beer costs £3.50. For extra Christmas spirit, a Baileys on the rocks is £5.
Unlike an Airbnb city break, passengers on board enjoy an all-you-can-eat breakfast buffet and three-course lunch between tours. At 7 p.m., a four-course dinner is served, always ending on a bottomless cheese platter. The menu is unexpected: from sole with risotto to stewed venison.
I meet the ship in Budapest, the bustling capital of Hungary. Budapest in December is not for the faint-hearted. The hottest you’ll find is 4°C, but it’s more likely to be freezing. The ship has a small spa and I sign up for a massage as soon as I arrive. For the next six days I am determined to relax and, rather embarrassingly, the slow motion of the ship slowly lulls me to sleep on the masseuse’s bed.
Although Budapest is chilly, the weather doesn’t seem to deter revelers. St. Stephen’s Basilica hosts the city’s most popular market: the Advent feast. Arranged in the shadow of the sixth largest church in Hungary, its popularity lies mainly in its setting.
In this downtown market, food comes first. Goulash lines the stalls, alongside roast goose leg, potato pancakes, chimney cakes and Beigli, a Hungarian Christmas cake made from poppy seeds. People come here to be gluttonous rather than to buy gifts, although there are a few craft stalls with ceramic candlesticks and fur hats among the food.
After touring Budapest, I’m back on board. The ship is a peaceful haven, accommodating a maximum of 174 passengers. The relative privacy of the ship compared to larger ocean liners creates an atmosphere that mirrors the calm of the river as we drift by.
The next day, after lunch, we set sail for Bratislava, Slovakia. This route takes us via the Danube Loop, a rare tight bend in Europethe central river. Hills and churches line the shore. On my arrival, I take a guided tour of Bratislava’s medieval castle before heading to its Christmas markets. The temperature seems even colder, although it does not drop below freezing and the mist makes the air feel like snow peak.
Slovakia is still a relatively unknown Christmas destination. In the early afternoon, the markets are much calmer than in Budapest: only a few dozen people join me to browse the stalls of grilled cheese, mulled wine, strudel, dumplings and pottery. Old fashioned Christmas carols are playing in the background, and on a quiet street a few blocks from the market, a woman is playing Alleluia on a harp as a small crowd gathers. A man passes by on a bicycle with a nest of mistletoe picked up in a basket. I have never felt more Christmas.
The next morning we arrive in Vienna. This town has a Christmas market on every corner. I wander for hours on the largest Rathausplatz market, in front of Vienna’s town hall. I join the throngs of people queuing for a painfully kitschy festive mug: these mugs are handed out as souvenirs for refillable wine at specific stalls, and the various designs have become collectibles around the city. There are more crafts for sale in this market, so I spend my time buying sticky baubles and candles to keep my newly found Christmas spirit alive.
Known as the birthplace of classical music, Vienna is unsurprisingly a more expensive city than Budapest and Bratislava. I wait patiently in line for 30 minutes to enter the famous Café Sacher for one of Vienna’s famous chocolate pies and a coffee, which costs me €15.
“I’ve actually been on this cruise once before,” a passenger on board tells me as we discuss costs. “It’s cheaper than doing three self-organized city breaks.”
In the past, cruises may have catered primarily to an older audience, but at 26, I was enlightened by this festive river voyage. You might overdo it with the mulled wine, but, at the very least, you won’t go broke in the process.
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A five-night cruise “Imperial Danube Cities and Yuletide Markets” with Riviera Travel on Mrs William Wordsworthdeparting 2 Dec 2023, costs from £1,049 pp including flights, transfers, full board and excursions (rivieratravel.co.uk).
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