Hater’s Guide to Las Vegas | Culture & Leisure

If you think you hate Las Vegas, you might be blinded by the lights of the Strip. No local will argue that the city you see in TV shows and movies is overdone. There are also slogans from the tourist office to thank for this image. If you have no interest in playing blackjack, popping bottles, or wandering around a convention hall at your company’s expense, you could be forgiven for thinking there’s nothing for you here. You would be wrong.

As I learned from living in Vegas for four years, there’s so much beyond the four-mile stretch of fountains, blaring slot machines, and fake landmarks.

You’ll find hikes that rival popular Southwest destinations, a burgeoning arts scene, and award-winning food from chefs. And there’s an often overlooked community that keeps this tourist machine running 24/7. Here are some tips for your visit.

Find hotels without a casinoLas Vegas is a hotel city. It’s not an Airbnb town – or not like you think. You won’t find many small, homey apartments for rent like you would in DC or New York.

That doesn’t mean you have to sneak through the smoky gambling floor of a mega hotel-casino to get to your room. I often opt for Vdara, a hotel and apartment tower on the Strip. Some landlords list their units on rental sites at lower than hotel rates, and you can also avoid the dreaded $45-per-night resort fee. Vdara is non-smoking, non-gaming and each room is a suite with a kitchen. It’s a short walk from luxury hotel-casinos like the Cosmopolitan, Bellagio, and Aria, where Vdara guests have access to even larger pools than their original tower.

I’ve recommended similar options to friends, like the Signature, a non-casino hotel with suites and condos attached to the MGM Grand. If you want to do it all, the Waldorf Astoria and the Four Seasons are other non-casino options. For more of a boutique style, there’s English, a new downtown hotel by chef Todd English.

Explore the outdoorsIf the lights of the Strip are the first thing you notice when landing in Vegas, the mountains are surely the second. About 20 minutes from the Strip is the Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area – nearly 196,000 protected acres of red sandstone and limestone peaks that have become a booming destination for rock climbing.

But it offers hikes for all skill levels. Erin McDermott, Executive Director of Friends of Red Rock Canyon, recommends the Moenkopi Trail, which is about two miles and connects to the Calico area (one of my favorites due to its concentration of red rocks). For more experienced hikers, McDermott suggests the six-mile Windy Peak hike. Reservations are required from October to May for the 21 km scenic loop.

Carpooling can get you to the Red Rock Visitor Center, but driving back can be a challenge as cell service is spotty or non-existent. McDermott suggests finding tours by scooter, e-bike or car. If you have a rental car, consider Valley of Fire State Park. A chance to see petroglyphs carved by Native Americans at least 2,000 years ago is well worth the hour drive from town.

Mount Charleston, about an hour from Vegas, offers skiing in the winter and a cooler getaway in the summer. You can also kayak on Lake Mead near the Hoover Dam.

Discover a funkier VegasOne of the biggest changes in Vegas in recent years has been the explosion of the Arts District. Originally 18 blocks between the Strat Hotel and Casino (the one that looks like a space needle) and Fremont Street (“old Vegas”), the district of galleries, thrift stores, restaurants and bars has nearly doubled in size. size, said arts district chair Abby Stroot. . The murals cover formerly abandoned and industrial buildings where new owners have moved in. They still co-exist alongside auto and upholstery stores and long-established antiques.

Eat on the StripYou’ll find the most locally loved (and owned) spots away from the Strip.

Lotus of Siam may already be on your radar. Award-winning chef James Beard Saipin Chutima’s Thai restaurant specializes in northern dishes and has an extensive wine list. Its current location on Flamingo Road is a quick Uber from the Strip.

Chinatown, marked by an arch on Spring Mountain Road, includes more than three miles of markets, karaoke bars and Asian restaurants.

As Ryan Doherty, who runs several downtown bars and restaurants, reminded me: Vegas is a welcoming city, which sets it apart from other cities.

“I think we have one of the best serves here in the world,” Doherty said.

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