The hot spa is the star of Budapest: a guide to the Hungarian capital’s incredible thermal pools

Each week, our holiday hero, Neil Simpson, takes an in-depth look at a brilliant holiday topic, doing all the groundwork so you don’t have to. This week: hot springs in Hungary.

Mid-winter city breaks can be chilly, but it’s easy to warm up on a long weekend in Budapest, as historic spas are among the city’s most popular attractions.

The thermal baths are fed by dozens of springs that flow under the streets of the city. Many are over 100 years old and have helped make the Hungarian capital one of the most established wellness centers in the world.

Entrance tickets can be purchased online or at the door, and many are open until late so you can relax after a full day of sightseeing. Admission includes locker keys, and while some spas offer towel rentals, you’ll need bathing suits and often flip flops and swimming caps.

The most eye-catching and memorable of Budapest’s grand spas is the Széchenyi Baths in the heart of the city park.

First opened in 1914, Széchenyi’s grand, golden-hued neo-baroque buildings look like a royal palace or a fairy tale scene.

Deep within the complex are more than a dozen pools, saunas, steam rooms and treatment areas. But the highlight of the show are the three huge outdoor pools. Steam rises from the water all winter long and fans say it’s especially magical in snow or rain. Don’t be surprised to see one of Budapest’s most iconic images: locals playing chess on waterproof boards while taking a long, hot bath in the open air.

Or try one of the events that bring the baths back into fashion: spa parties (nicknamed SParties) with DJs, light shows and dance music until the early hours. The next big event is on New Years Eve and tickets cost around £60.

Standard entry during the day is around £16, or you can buy cheaper tickets from 5pm until closing time, normally 7pm-8pm.

The second of the city’s famous bath complexes is the riverside Rudas Spa, where a 32-foot-wide dome towers above the octagonal main pool.

This historic resort has a Turkish bath inspired by those from the Ottoman era and recently opened a rooftop pool with views of the Danube and the city skyline.

While Rudas has always been popular with tourists, it’s also a new favorite among discerning locals. Admission costs from £14.

If you’re visiting Budapest soon, another must-see spa is the Gellert Baths, a green-and-blue-hued Art Nouveau treasure dating back to 1918 that is set to close soon for renovations.

Head to the historic resort while it’s still open (closing dates are yet to be confirmed) to relax in facilities that include a mineral-rich indoor pool surrounded by lines of tall carved stone columns. Entry costs from £25.

Budapest also has a host of smaller, sometimes more modern thermal baths, although there are fears that the opening hours of some will be reduced this winter as heating costs rise. Recommended spas include Dandar, Dagaly and Veli Bej Bath.

Getting to Budapest is easier than many think.

Direct flights with Wizz Air, easyJet, Ryanair, Jet2 and British Airways take 90 minutes from UK airports. Fares this winter start at around £66 return.

Packages include Jet2 flights from Birmingham and three nights at the Continental Hotel, with rooftop pool, from £216 pp in January (jet2holidays.com).

Or you can get BA flights from Heathrow plus three nights at Boutique Hotel Budapest – near the Danube and Gellert Spa – from £208 pp (ba.com).

For more details on Budapest spas and other city attractions, go to visithungary.com.